Ghost Month celebrations

About a month ago I wrote an entry about the opening of the 'Gates of Hell'. Today, one month later, at midnight, Hell's Gates are due to close again. I know of no other place which takes this Seventh Month in the Lunar Calendar as Taiwan. Probably because traditions have been kept alive, and at times encouraged, since time immemorial...but together with Taiwanese people's love of celebrations, of eating and drinking, as well as that spirit of remembering and honouring the deceased, and the sub-conscious fear of displeasing evil, each year around this time offers colourful and fascinating insight to Taiwanese culture. Some even joke that ghosts from other countries love to come to Taiwan in this month, because of the abundance of food and fun to be had...!

So the month begins with the opening of the Gates of Hell, which reputedly releases all the hungry and bored ghosts out into our world. For one month, they roam our world, which also results in people becoming catious in whatever they do, out of fear of 'unexpected encounters'. There are of course many 'dos and don'ts' (see previous blogs). Celebrations are held daily, especially at temples, big and small.

The 'Big Worship’(普渡, literally 'aiding the passage' (of spirits from one world to another)), falls on the 15th of the Seventh Month in the Lunar calendar. Always a terribly busy and hectic day everywhere, with every household and business setting up table-fuls of food, beverages and dishes to ‘sacrifice’ to the ghosts that roam the world at the moment. Firecrackers, prayers, flower wagons and parades cruise the streets, while men and women, old and young busy themselves with traditions that have been kept alive and passed down from generation to generation.

The main gist of the festival is to remember those who have ‘already gone’, especially relatives and ancestors. So cooking a good ten dish meal, together with rice, soup and fruits is a must. From early in the morning I started to prepare, and didn’t finish until late in the afternoon. There were so many places to go, so many to pray to…the ancestral plaque (公禡) is located at my grandmother’s place, and there I did most of the cooking and worshipping. Not only the ancestral plaque is basically a piece of wood with the family name written on it. It is said that when a member of the family dies, the spirit will continue to reside in it, and that small ancestral wood, which is contained inside a beautifully carved box, is passed down the male line. The ‘Land Lord’ (地基主), is another must-worship in every household, as he (and his wife) are the guardians of the household. It is said that they reside in the kitchen, underneath the stove. Then there are the ‘worldly ghosts’, who only come out to ‘play’ in this seventh month of the Lunar calendar. They must be carefully worshipped with treats and sweets, delicious food and drinks, and a wash basin must also be provided for them to wash after having ‘eaten and drunken’ the treats.

Then, the month is rounded off with the closing of the Gates of Hell. Which is today. For one last day, people bring out all they have to offer the spirits and ghosts, as this may be the final feast before they leave this world and enter the 'other world' . Again, the usual tableful of freshly cooked foods, fresh fruits, cookies, drinks, deserts, as well as paper money and 'equipments' are laid out on a table outside. Incense sticks are put on each item, so that the ghosts will know where to go, and what to eat and use. Further, as this is the last day of the Ghost Month, tradition holds that one must burn 12 incense sticks, and walk around the house with it. In every room, one must 'invite' everyone to come out and feast... This is done because it is feared that some 'naughty ghosts' may hide in the house and refuse to go back to where they came from... even ghosts may be reluctant to go 'home' after a month of hard feasting and play.
Similarly, a mixture of rice wine, salt, herbs and rice is sprayed into each room to ward off bad things.

After the incence sticks have reached around half their originally lengths, it may be time to pack up and start burning paper money and effects. But we must ask the spirits before we do so. And to ask, tradition holds we take two coins and flip them into the air. We must ask the spirits whether they have eaten, and whether they have eaten well. A head and a tail means yes...any other combination is a definite no-no, and we must wait a few more moments before asking again. Some say this is just about probability, about chances...but I've come across (personally) times when a head and tail does not appear, even after ten or twenty throws. This, people say, may be because the spirits are angry or unhappy about something...it may be because the proper procedures have not been followed, or maybe because not everyone in the household is present, or maybe because a drink is missing.

Anyways, today I was lucky and quickly got a reply. The spirits were satisfied.
Time to send them off then. To do so, we burn the heap of paper money and effects, so that they may be accompanied with much to take along for them journey 'onwards'. The entire ceremony should take about one hour or so; all of which you can see in the pictures.

Tradition keeps a people alive, while culture maintains the health of a civilisation.
I try to follow these traditions whenever I can. It doesn't mean I'm superstitious, but just means I feel these are important rituals and rites which say something about me and where I come from. Such elaborate celebrations and festivals may be seen as wasteful and excessive, and indeed sometimes the money spent may be put to better use. Some people commit wrongs, and think by throwing big celebrations and burning heaps and heaps of paper money will take away their sin. That's not the way.

Do good, live well, and honestly, and there is no need to fear either gods or ghosts.
That, at least, is what I've been taught.