Saturday, June 04, 2005

The city at night

Went into town tonight, and had dinner at the famous Shilin Night Market (士林夜市).
Always many things to choose from, from traditional delicacies of seafood, sausages, vegetables, to Japanese, Indian, Thai, Vietnamese kitchen; from fried, stir-fried, boiled, squeezed, to foods of all shapes and sizes. And all for budget prices. For around NT$30-80 (approx. €1-2), you can savour all sorts of special receipes probably not found elsewhere. Some foods are really exotic (also read disgusting to some people), as many internal organs of animals are consumed here. Taiwanese people believe that when you eat the organ of another, you also 'boost' (補, meaning heighten the functions) your own organ...So, eating a pig's heart will improve your heart, for example, and eating the testicles of chicken will... (you guess). Maybe not hygenic sounding, but then people have been eating these things for thousands of years, and are still thriving. As they say here, anything with four legs can be eaten (except a table).

Eating as a culture is a habit and hobby here. People eat to develop friendships, and the first thing people think of when going out is to eat. It's the most effective and suitable way to get to know someone. Actually the first thing people say when meeting another is ask: '吃飽了沒?' (have you eaten?) It's a sort of greeting, that is engrained in the way people interact with one another.

And in this country, eating is never a big problem, whatever time of the day. My parents hardly ever cook at all, as it's probably much cheaper and saves hassle to eat outside. I've been here almost a week, and only had two meals at home.

Beside food, there are many alleys and streets around the market famous for its cheap merchandise. There you can found all sorts of things, from shoes to LCD screens, from even more food to CDs. Many are of course imitations of famous brands and labels from afar, but then at a fraction of the price. There are also fortune-tellers who sit around temples and attract many worried about their prospects in life, love and career.

After that I went to my dad's apartment in central Taipei. I took the bus and noticed that the bus was fitted with LCD screens, broadcasting advertising and the news. Coincidentally, the Netherlands Tourist Board broadcast a short film about Holland...the usual attractions of tulips, wooden shoes, windmills and Keukenhof. That sense of being 'home away from home' again.
The world outside as the bus rushed through the streets of Taipei was so colourful and bright, even though it was past nine. So many cars, motorcycles, pedestrians, against a background of yellow street lights, flashing neon-light kanban (看板, Japanese word for ad signs), of illuminated skyscrapers and public parks. A city full of life, at night.

From the rooftop of the six storey building, I tried to view the city in its colourful dress of lights and splendour. The Shin Kong Mitsukoshi Life Tower shown like a beacon towards the west, while in the east the newly opened Taipei 101 glowed like a torch in the night sky.

When does this place ever sleep?

No comments: